A British smoking calendarwhat to cook, month by month

Britain doesn't really have a smoking season. It has twelve slightly different ones, each with its own weather, its own butcher's counter and its own excuse for not lighting the fire. This calendar is a loose guide to what suits each month, written for a smoker that lives outside all year.

January

Cold, often wet, and short on daylight, so plan cooks that finish before dark. A pork shoulder is the classic January cook: forgiving, cheap, and happy to sit wrapped in a cool box while you warm up indoors. Keep charcoal and pellets in the dry, and read our notes on smoking in winter before the first cold cook.

February

Still wintry, with wind that can strip heat from a thin steel smoker. Beef short ribs or a brisket point make a good weekend project when you're stuck at home anyway. Oak is a steady choice for beef and easy to find from British suppliers.

March

The days stretch out and the first dry weekends turn up, usually between showers. It's the month to give the smoker a once-over after winter, then ease back in with something simple like a whole chicken. Apple wood keeps poultry mild.

April

Spring lamb starts appearing at the butcher, and a smoked lamb shoulder is a very British thing to do with it. Expect the weather to change three times in one cook. Cherry or a little oak suits lamb well.

May

Longer evenings mean you can cook after work for the first time in months. Sausages, chicken thighs and halloumi are quick enough for a weeknight. Bank holiday weekends are good for a first rack of ribs of the year.

June

Usually the most settled month for long cooks, though nobody would put money on it. This is a good time to have a go at brisket, with daylight on your side from the early start to the late finish. Have a plan for rain anyway.

July

Warm days mean the smoker runs steadier and uses less fuel. Salmon, mackerel and vegetables all suit hot afternoons, and cold smoking is best left for cooler months, because heat is the enemy there. Alder and apple are classic partners for fish.

August

Peak garden-party season, which means feeding a crowd. Pulled pork and smoked sausages stretch a long way, and the meat calculator stops you buying enough for half the street. Watch for thundery downpours.

September

Often mild and settled, and one of the more pleasant months to cook outside. Lamb shoulder from older lamb or hogget has more fat and flavour by now. Start thinking about drying out stored wood before autumn arrives properly.

October

Game birds generally start turning up at butchers and game dealers through autumn. Pheasant and partridge are lean, so they want short cooks and a gentle smoke. Duck is the richer alternative, and the smoking wood guide covers which British woods suit each.

November

Wet, windy and dark early, so cooks get shorter and the smoking weather check earns its keep. It's the month for winter care: empty the ash, check the gaskets and bring the pellets indoors. Cold smoking cheese is at its easiest now, while the air is cool.

December

Christmas puts the smoker to its most important job of the year: a turkey crown, a gammon, maybe a side of salmon. The cooking is the easy part; fridge space and butcher's orders are where it gets tricky. Our Christmas smoking plan sets out the days in order.

Pick the month you're in, choose one cook from it, and check the weather the night before you light up.