Game season on the smokernew venison and pheasant guides

Most British barbecue writing goes quiet after September. That's a shame, because the next few months bring some of the best meat in the country to the butcher's counter, and it suits a smoker very well. Pheasant is in season from October, partridge since September, and late autumn is when most game dealers have the widest choice of venison.

So this week we've added two new cook guides.

What's new

Smoked venison. The short version: venison is two different meats. Haunch and loin are lean and tender, and want a short, gentle smoke and a pink centre, much like a good steak. Shoulder and neck are tough and want hours of smoke and braising until they pull. The guide covers both, with the cook planner built in for each.

Smoked pheasant, partridge and pigeon. Pheasant has a reputation for being dry, and on a smoker that's easy to fix with a short brine and a blanket of streaky bacon. The guide includes the brine calculator set up for a brace of birds, rough times for pheasant and partridge, and a quick method for pigeon breasts.

Both cooks are also in the "What's going on the smoker?" picker on the home page and in the knowledge base cheat sheet.

Why game suits a winter smoker

Game cooks are short compared with a brisket. A pheasant is done in an hour or so, and a venison haunch in a couple of hours. That matters in a British November. You're not trying to hold a steady fire for twelve hours through a cold, wet night, which is the hard part of smoking in winter. You light up after lunch and you're eating at teatime.

Game is also lean, which means it rewards the things a smoker is good at: gentle heat, a clean fire and a little mild wood. Oak, beech, apple and cherry, all British, are ideal.

Three tips for a first game cook

1. Ask the butcher or game dealer. Tell them it's going on a smoker. They'll point you to the right cut, trim it, and often bone and roll a haunch or pluck a brace of pheasants for you.
2. Use less wood than you think. Lean meat takes smoke quickly. One or two chunks is plenty.
3. Cook to temperature, not time. Use a probe. Whole cuts of venison can be served pink, while game birds such as pheasant need cooking through. Each guide links to the FSA guidance.

If you're planning further ahead, game also makes a good alternative or addition to the turkey. A smoked haunch of venison on Boxing Day frees the oven and feeds a crowd cold. Our Christmas smoking plan shows how to fit an extra joint into the timings.